Day 4: Zarcero and La Fortuna

We boarded the bus to Zarcero at the Antique Norte Station where you actually want a bus headed for Cuidad Quesada. However, it's more confusing than that...the locals call Cuidad Quesada San Carlos; so, your bus will probably be marked San Carlos. You want to get off at Zarcero, before San Carlos.

the 7:40am bus got us to Zarcero around 9am; and Zarcero makes a nice stopover during the long (about 4 hours) bus trip from San Jose to the Arenal Volcano area. The bus ride itself was probably the pretties we took. After passing the city of Naranjo, the views are great, the landscape steep, and the weather cloudy, foggy, and cool.

The only attraction in Zarcero is the amazing topiary garden cared for by the church garnder. You'll see everything from a monkey on a motorcycle to a turtle to a peacock. You may also want to visit the church as it's pink interior is pretty unbelievable.

We stopped at a soda for some refreshment and to use the servisos (bathrooms!) and then boarded the next bus we saw to San Carlos. The trip to Fortuna was pleasant with good views again--lots of palms with coconuts, papaya trees and other novelties for the traveler.

In Fortuna, we stayed at Las Colinas. We arranged to take a tour to the Vendado caves the next day and then set out on a hike to the La Fortuna waterfall. It's a rather long walk to the falls--5km or so. But, it's a nice walk along a dirt road with no traffic. Along the way, we stopped at the Vogel Garden, a small bird sanctuary run by a German and Costa Rican couple. For $2 each, we entered the aviary and saw a wide variety of birds including one pretty brave toucan and a samll white bunny. It was pouring rain and the couple as nice enough to let us sit on the covered porch to wait it out. We actually walked through the aviary in the rain and watched as most of the birds hid from the rain under large leaves.

Once you reach the waterfall entrance (about $3/person to enter) the waterfall itself is another 500m scramble down a rather precarious and muddy path. We arrived around 5pm and it was already beginning to get dark and no one was there to take our entrance fee. By the time we got down to the waterfall, admired it, photographed it, and went for a dip, it was pretty dark! Always have an umbrella and a flashlight when you hike in Costa Rica. We hiked back up and then walked the 5km to Fortuna in the dark. It's not frightening at all, but you do have to be careful of bugs and potholes. We got to see some evening fire flies and a huge frog tha we probably wouldn't have seen in daylight.

Back in Fortuna, muddy and tired, we ate at Del Rio right across from the Hotel. I have to say this is probably the best place to eat in Fortuna! Good food, good prices, and not at all touristy.